Coconut Home

It is with great sadness, when I learned from Kai last week that Coconut Home would be re-developed.

Just about 10+ years ago, Chan and I found ourselves hauling our kayak bags off a tuk-tuk at the sandy steps of Coconut Home. We were greeted by Kai, Bang Liew, and Beern. 15 simple wooden chalets set around the perimeter of a green field with swaying coconut trees. A balcony that looks out to the sea and a huge toilet for washing kayak. It was our kind of place.

We stayed at Chalet No. 1, a chalet that I was to go back again and again for many more years. From Coconut Home, we discovered the incredible beauty of Thalen canyons, Ko Hong, and the northern islands. At that time, we were already on the water for 10 days, paddling from the Malaysian border and on the way to Phuket. We started this trip bitterly disappointed with Burma junta's decision to revoke our permit to kayak the Irrawaddy River. But really, what would we have expected dealing with them? Perhaps the disappointment carried over, and Chan and I had a big bust up at Coconut Home and he left. Anyway all these were detailed in my journal of that trip.

Alone and crushed, I was nevertheless serenaded each evening by the amazing sunsets on Tha Len Bay. I promoted it to many people that Tha Len Bay has the most beautiful sunsets in Krabi. It felt I was meant to be marooned there after all. I went out daily for a paddle, sometimes 2-3 times a day to the canyons, just to be feel less lonely.There was no phone network, no tv, no internet, nothing to connect me to others...once back to Coconut Home, I simply carried the kayak to my balcony and settled on its wooden chair to write or read.

In 2003 I was back and met Hana as a curious 2 year old. She is now 9 years old and learning to speak 4 languages. With English, she told me "I want an ipad2 for my birthday!". In 2004 when the Tsunami hit, Coconut Home was extensively damaged. It took me 2 heart-breaking months to find out that everyone is OK.

Over the years, I have brought others to Coconut Home. Many students and paddlers have stayed there as I figure out how to make them fall in love with the waters of Krabi. Not everyone love that place and most are indifferent. Coconut Home is too basic, too old, too unconnected, too remote...

I joked to myself Coconut Home will be one of my marked refuge if I ever descend into a depression, which thankfully had not happened. 

By and large for the past 10 years, Coconut Home and its surroundings have been something stable and unchanging in my life. This is something I treasure and I would miss it terribly when it is finally gone. 

Bye!