A Trail to Wayag, part 1 (3/15)

The Lesser Frigatebirds soared higher with each circle they traced.

This morning there was a struggle of light and dark. We sat around watching the slow born of purple. The Lesser Frigatebirds were at sea level with us, hanging just above the ocean waves. Slowly they soared higher with each circle they traced, held aloft by an invisible breeze beneath their wings. These majestic birds, recognizable by their notched tail and slender wings, were seen by us daily. Upon reaching sufficient height, they swooped beyond our island, one after another. 

We watched darkness won. Rain felled over us. It ended the breakfast early and should had set everyone off for the departure prep. But the rain made us unsure about packing our soaked tents and gear. Being dry, in whatever forms, seemed to be high on priority despite the impracticality. We took out the kayaks that were stored inside the vegetation and readied them for loading on the beach. 

Our folding kayaks were designed for long sea expeditions. Because they were made of ‘skin’ and ‘bones’, they performed well by responding to changes in the environment. The first few days of expedition allowed the folding kayak to find its shape to match our load and sea conditions. With the load we were carrying, the skin would stretch and we had to tighten loose tension by extending the aluminum frame. It was akin to having a sensitive animal we had to care for as our transport. Four kayaks required adjustments this morning and this delayed our departure.

When the adjustments were done, the rain had also stopped. Rain that fell on to the leaves, rolled down the branches of trees, and wasted into the sand. Enough rain had pooled on my nylon cockpit cover that it weighed a puddle. I kneeled to suck in the rain water. It was fresh and cool. We were thirsty. Because we had only another 3 days of water supply left, we were unwisely conserving water despite the dangers. 

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We entered the Two Surf lagoon late morning and stayed inside its tranquility to enjoy a long lunch and cooling off. There were two entrances, one with easy surf and the other big roaring surf. Inside, we found impossible clear water and peace. It was a day of discovering such breathtaking lagoons, each bigger and more intricate than the last. It was at the last lagoon, that the surf took out one kayaker. 

I looked at the surf for a long time, thinking if I should be the first one through or last one out. The surf on the left looked smaller and if the timing was right, passable. I slowly paddled towards the outlet, adjusting my speed to let the biggest ones crashed and riding above the smaller ones. Most of the team followed, except three.

Tiak was the only kayak who emerged from the second group.

“Where are Johnny and SH?!”

“They drifted to the center. I saw them vertical. Like that!”, Tiak lifted up both palms.

A huge surf had came bellowing in, pole struck their kayaks, and barrel rolled them into the reefs. Anything not secured was floating or sinking. Johnny saw his ipad floating away and made a grab for it. Another surf crashed and rolled them again. And again. 

We were waiting outside the outlet for the carnage to be over. I sat up and saw two capsized kayaks. 

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