The Equator Crossing, Part 1 (5/15)
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| Preparing to leave Wayag for the equator crossing to Pulau Kawe. |
The crossing to E12 (Pulau Kawe) started well. The sea was smooth and it was almost boring to paddle the flat and featureless channel. By 10am, storm clouds had formed on the east and with the prevailing easterly winds, enveloped us till the sun and blue skies were blocked out. Very soon, we could not see Pulau Kawe which was screened by a wall of dark grey rain. The horizon disappeared. We continued paddling at 150 degrees, using our deck compass for the right way.
“Aim for safety beach.”, that was the last radio message that Johnny heard.
When we could see Pulau Kawe again, we were able to get a reading of our drift. The currents had picked up so much we now need to aim at 100 degrees, drifting right to our original position. The receding tide was flowing west at almost 4km/hr, and with our heavy kayaks managing an average of 5km/hr, it meant we could be moving only 1km/hr.
“Aim for island west of Pulau Kawe, continue to E12 along the western shores.”, that was the message Johnny missed.
We lost contact with Johnny and Bhas at that point. It was 11am.
~
It was not until 5pm that we finally all met again, having drifted differently in two groups, and realized that Johnny and Bhas were not behind. At 7pm, we prepared for night kayaking. There was still no sightings of Johnny and Bhas. It was easier to spot one of us at night, so we hoped their lights would eventually be spotted. We had another immediate problem, having arrived at the recommended campsite, we found there was no beach. We were already 8km passed E12, today's E-point. Continue forward or paddle back?
20km away from us on the northern shores, Johnny and Bhas crashed their kayaks onto Safety Beach. The surf pounded their kayaks repeatedly, filling it with sand-mixed water, weighing the kayaks down. The gargling backwash powerfully sucked the kayaks with it. They flopped to the ground to leverage their body weight against the backwash, but the flooded kayaks now weigh twice than themselves. They were dragged back into the water by the kayaks. Bhas’ paddle leash snapped and his paddle floated away. Even if they had the strength to pull up the kayaks, immediately behind them was the trees. They had nowhere to keep the kayaks from the waves.
20km away from us on the northern shores, Johnny and Bhas crashed their kayaks onto Safety Beach. The surf pounded their kayaks repeatedly, filling it with sand-mixed water, weighing the kayaks down. The gargling backwash powerfully sucked the kayaks with it. They flopped to the ground to leverage their body weight against the backwash, but the flooded kayaks now weigh twice than themselves. They were dragged back into the water by the kayaks. Bhas’ paddle leash snapped and his paddle floated away. Even if they had the strength to pull up the kayaks, immediately behind them was the trees. They had nowhere to keep the kayaks from the waves.
The rest of the team on the south decided to trace the coast back to E12. Chan and Pete said they saw some sheltered cove at E12, and urged us to paddle back. At night, the sound of surf was frightening because we could not see. And it did not sound too good continuing forward. Disintegration on the rocks always sounded closer than they were. Without warning, a rouge surf could whip us in, and lacerate our flesh with rocks. The crashing of waves into rocks and the reflected waves created a turbulent surface to paddle. The team paddled close and well away from the roars of water.
The many bays and coves I entered later to scout for campsite either had no beach, or had unnerving surf. The team had completely gone quiet, and often had to be called out to know everyone was still following. I had lead frustrated and emotional night paddlers before. The uncertainties of when and where the paddle would end caused lots of stress. I found that if one could just let go of time and space, laugh, and enjoy the bit of turbulence, it made for a happier landing.
I wasn't sure if Johnny and Bhas had a happy landing, but by this time, they had settled with the surf. The receding tides helped, exposing a strip of beach, and their adrenalin eased. In darkness they wearily relieved their bags from the kayaks. Johnny was convinced the surf was going to hit them at the next high tide. Leaving the kayaks on the beach was not safe. Camping was not safe. He convinced Bhas to stored their bags among the tree branches, and keep the kayaks off the ground. “Tied them to the branches.”, Johnny was having no doubts. “Carry the kayaks up, tied them down.”, he proposed. Johnny then took out his sarong, sat inside the kayak, wrapped himself up, and announced, “I am sleeping.”
Bhas was stunned.
~
On the opposite end along Kawe's southern coast, Tiak was also stunned.
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