Gam. Home. (15/15)
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Life was simple. We woke up in the morning and walked a distance to find a cozy place to dig a hole. The air was still cool and many birds were rousing at the same time. We then walked back to the tents, took our canteen, and sat by the stove. Kathy would had the stove on. The faint scent of coffee twirled in with the last of yesterday night’s embers. We watched the last part of sunrise while the birds, having their feathers dried by the sun, took flight. Light layered the water, which shimmered when the breeze rose. There was no time and this was our clock.
We could paddle to more deserted islands today, or don our snorkel masks and dived into a mysterious underwater world. We could sit there listening to the birds and watched them. We could poach for coconuts or look for shells along the beach. We could lie on the sand and talk about food. Our wants determined by doing what made us happy. What else do we need?
A rare dinner-size fiddler crab crawled into camp. We had gas to boil it with coconut. Raja Ampat had been exploited for a long time. It was a favorite place for vessels of shark finners. Small prahu launched daily on its coasts blasted the seas for fish. Fleets were sent to collect its vast riches as trade for live collections and seafood. And at this remote island of E26 known to few, did it make a difference to take a crab?
Hunger wasn’t lacking. I lacked a measure of desperateness to kill it. The crab was let go.
The next morning, we paddled to the island of Gam. It was the last island we visited on the expedition, and the most populated. Everyone who visited Raja Ampat would visit Gam due to its incredible ‘blue water mangroves’. The great naturalist Alfred Russell Wallace stayed on Gam. It seemed to Tiak that the ancient corals built Gam, then the mangroves that came after spread over corals, and new corals grew under mangrove, and...now, an island of inter-harmony and indescribable beauty. Inside its bluewater mangroves, strong currents swept the corals underneath, and on the surface, carried our kayaks over a fantastic journey of colors, patterns, and life. Such a place was surely impossible to re-create.
As its fame grew, Gam developed. It now supports 5 villages and had the most number of home-stays built for tourists operated by the local villagers. More resources were being organized to make vacations comfortable for the increasing demands of tourists. More diesel-burning generators, more timber for huts, more toilets, more fishing to create a respectable menu...tourism had made some locals and expats here prosperous.
“Raja Ampat should be kept as it is. No more developments.”, Halim repeatedly tried to convince me.
Like water, the flow of money was unstoppable and touched everyone. But water had a cycle, an ebb and flow. Will Raja Ampat find that balance?
Eventually we had to leave this home. We were mildly excited we no longer had to wear these sun protective attire, unwashed for the past 12 days. We were looking forward to seeing friends, a fresh water bath, fresh food, and being dry.
We ended the expedition on 20 December on the island of Gam. At 1523hours, Johnny released the empty whisky bottle that contained an expedition badge.
Whoever picks it up, knock yourself out !
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| The expedition bottle. |
Dec 2012
~ The end.
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