Paddling Bunaken Island

Spent my Xmas on Bunaken Island in North Sulawesi. Took the Java along as I heard the snorkelling there are fantastic, and the Java was just the perfect craft to snorkel from. And since I was going with Anne, I could convert it to a double if she happens to want to kayak. "But it is hot and I will get sea-sick", I can hear her now. Had to bring pairs of gear - paddle, seat, etc - you know!

It was rainy season on Bunaken Island. The 5 days we were there it rained and rained and made us felt we overpaid for the room with the sunset view.

Besides the rain the wind was blowing strongly from the West. But I decided one morning to 'circumnavigate' (to use a big kayak word, whats there to navigate?) Bunaken Island. I started East as I wanted to try out the kite on the Java. It was an ease to launch the kite from the Java, and before long I was pull along at a reasonable speed of 3km/h. I was able to lean back and do nothing.

Bunaken is famous for its diving. Ringing the whole island is a layer of fantastic reef. I was thinking if I should just attached the kite to myself and let it pull me round the island to cover every inch of reef and corals. While I didn't do that, it was nice to just let the current swept me along the coast as I snorkelled. I was so thankful that many parts of the reefs were still thriving and not destroyed by dynamite or cynaide fishing. I could lie on the Java and see the underwater all day. Truly a treasue to behold!

But Bunaken is under pressure: there is a growing settlement, brackish wells, no fresh water, lots of rubbish, and piles of decomposing seaweeds get washed up every day on the western beaches. It used to be a heaven for dugongs, pilot whales, and dolphins. But now Winston the dive instructor last words are always 'if you are lucky you can see...'.

When the wind stopped blowing my kite went down and then it rained hard. When the rain stopped the wind picked up but by this time I was paddling against the wind. How I wished I was not on a Java. The handsome Sulawesi outrigger boats were being lapped up by the waves. My shoulders were breaking for sure trying to return in time for lunch.

The entrance fee for Bunaken is S$30 and is valid for the whole year. The entrance tag was attractive and properly made. The park management is highly organized and there is a system about it.

'But there are only 5 days left to the year!' Bernard exclaimed when he paid out the money. Bernard and Julia, formerly living in Thailand are building a resort on the other side of Manado on Lembeh Island. Bernard build catamarans for a living.

'OK, OK, you come back next year, they have record. No pay again' Winston assured.

In my mind the map of Sulawesi is sea-faring land. This is where the skilled Bugis seafarers are from. This is the place of the outriggers, volcanoes, an ocean trench, big marine life.