Exploring Xe Bang Fai Cave, Pt 2

David, Soo, and YH waiting for the scouts' reports at the second rapids.

It was 4.13pm when we got the 5 folding kayaks and 1 guide inflatable kayak inside the cave. If we had thought the ceiling of the cave's entrance was grand, what we saw inside was simply breath-taking. Huge chambers of many storeys high overlooked our small kayaks as we paddled into the dark cave. We were against the flow and currents, but the paddling was easy, almost silk-like, and we moved effortlessly deeper.

Strange formations of limestones despoits clinged by the side of the chambers, like chandeliers of melted candlewax.

20 minutes into the cave, we heard a rumbling roar, which turned thunderous as we approached. It was frightening loud. We had reached the 2nd of the 3 known rapids. We pulled up at a small beach just after the rapids and went scouting.


YH with the mounted kayak lights designed by Philip, which effectiveness was severly limited in the huge cave.

I took a step up and shined at the rapids.

It was actually amazing to see and hear the rapids doing their course in the dark cave. The powerful hydralics working on the boulders and churning forward. The roar of their work reverberating around, magnifying itself many many times. I wished our lights could have the same effect as the roar of the rapids. Inside the gigantic XBF cave, our lights were like little dots.

The rocks here were not 'pinnacles' rocks, but smooth, big, giant limestone boulders collapsing in heaps, nooks, and crannies. While less dangerous than the sharp pinnacles, we assessed the portage here would required more climbs, up and down; more brute force in hauling the kayaks across. It was not encouraging.

For the longest time, we leaned in the darkness breathing the cave-regulated air, passed food around, and talked about anything else except the portage. We did not think we would want to portage at all, and just wanted to prolonged our time in the cave. Afterall, it took us 2 days just to get to this bloody cave!


JB and Keng the laotian guide scouting for a way past the 2nd rapids.

"Alright! Let's get on!", I bravely ventured.

"It is just paddling in darkness, same as just now... right?", David and Soo said.

"Are there any more rapids in front?", JB chipped in.

"I can go on if we go!", YH said.

"Kaang naa ik neng rapid, liao mai mii liao chay mai? Lek kwaa nii?" I asked the guide if there was only one more smaller rapid infront.

"Chay!", the guide replied 'yes'.


JB and Keng sprinting the inflatable guide kayak over the huge boulders.

David and Soo decided it was enough for them and elected to turn back. We had the K1, K-light, and the guide inflatable. The heavier K1 would be left behind, and YH and JB will paddle with the guide in a threesome inflatable. We were mindful of more rapids infront, and doing the same portages when we returned from the deep end. So the less weight the better.

For this portage, we thought speed would lessen the load and fatigue. So everything was done like a race, as we hauled and sprinted over the rocks, seemingly in one breath. The light man could not keep up, but the haulers didn't care. Keep the momemtum going. Biceps. Breath.

In the end, it took us just under half an hour to portage the 2 kayaks across. We stepped onto some mud on the way to the cold calm water. We drew our strokes until the thunderous roar became a faint echo. Just as silence was suddenly reached, we heard the the demoralising roars of rapids again.

We had reached the 3rd - and
- the last rapids.


Kayaks resting while we scouted.

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