Alone on the Nam Hin Boun

Beautiful Laotian children playing by the river.

I am aware the first stretch of river outside the cave was full of obstacles, rock gardens, and shallows. I really wanted to clear that stretch with some daylight. This 7.5km long cave must be cleared in 1 hour, no more. At the back of my mind, I wanted to catch up with the team mid-river, so that we could all do the night paddle together.

It was not until 4.43pm that I reached light. The boatman wanted me to go over the entrance rapids as well. I mentioned 'baa' and we did a quick portage over the rocky path. I quickly dismantled the light and ate a chocolate bar. I realized I had no more water left and thought of drinking the river water. I was thirsty and cursed myself for my lapse in not bringing more.

In the Laotian winter, the day got dark at around 5.30pm. We took 5 hours to paddle upstream to where I was now, and by estimate about 20km of meandearing river. I reckoned it would take at least 3 hours to paddle back leisurely in daylight. Time is short.

I raced down the river in urgency. At this time it was already hard to see sumberged obstacles and shallows, as the light has cast reflections on the river. It was a soothing and pretty sight, but it hide all the information I needed. Often I banged, crashed, got stucked, scrapped, or was tilted by submerged rocks, branches, or sand.

I zipped past the villagers, dishing out "sabaay dee..", with an apologetic tone. Their day were winding down, and they appeared relaxed by the river, bathing, playing, or simply putting their tired legs into the cold Nam Hin Boun. They called out constantly, asking ahead, offering some words of encouragment, or pointing out to me the deep water end.

I was glad I saw them relaxing in the evening. For most of the day as I paddled past, worries, work, and frustrations were etched in their faces as they digged their small cucumber gardens by the bank, or throwing their nets for a meagre catch. Many could only afford a smile of acknowledgement. Even as they bathed in the day, it was more to cool down from work than day.

The light was fading fast from the Nam Hin Boun. Already the crescent moon and a few bright stars were visible above. I was cold, thirsty, and hungry...